In the lush highlands of East Java, a revolution is brewing. Not the kind that topples governments, but one that's changing the way the world perceives Indonesian specialty coffee. At the forefront of this caffeinated uprising is Dandy Dharmawan, founder of Ijen Lestari, whose journey from failed Luwak coffee entrepreneur to Cup of Excellence winner is as rich and complex as the beans he produces.
Here at Koro Roasters, we're passionate about showcasing the incredible talent and innovation within Indonesia's coffee community. Dandy's story isn't just inspiring – it's a testament to the untapped potential of Indonesian coffee and the transformative power of perseverance, education, and community support.
The Accidental Coffee Pioneer
Dandy's coffee odyssey began in 2016, not with a carefully crafted business plan, but with a stumble into the world of Luwak coffee. "I started with Luwak coffee in 2016," Dandy recalls with a chuckle, "but it was a complete failure."
Dandy's Luwak venture quickly proved unsustainable. "The sales were only 100 grams of ground coffee per month," he shares, "so it really wasn't working." But as the saying goes, when one door closes, another opens – and in Dandy's case, that door led to the world of Arabica coffee.
As Dandy attempted to sell off his remaining Luwak coffee beans on Instagram, he noticed an unexpected trend. "The first day after I uploaded the picture, they asked whether I have Arabica or not. The second day as well, and the third day," he recounts.
This feedback sparked a crucial realization for Dandy. There was a growing demand for something different, something beyond the typical Indonesian coffee offerings. "At the time, I started to realize that there might be an untapped market for high-quality Arabica in Indonesia," Dandy explains.
Dandy's insight into this emerging market for specialty Arabica in Indonesia was prescient. It represented an opportunity for passionate producers to differentiate themselves and tap into a growing consumer base interested in unique, high-quality coffee experiences.
This pivot moment led Dandy to explore his home region, the Ijen mountain area, with fresh eyes. He discovered a thriving coffee landscape ripe for innovation right in his backyard. "There were 15,000 to 20,000 hectares at the time," he notes, "and it's almost 30,000 right now."
Little did Dandy know that this initial setback would be the first step in a journey that would reshape not just his career, but the entire landscape of his local coffee community and beyond.
The Ijen Coffee Landscape: A Hidden Gem
The Ijen region, nestled in East Java, has long been known for its stunning volcanic landscapes and fertile soil. What sets it apart from many other Indonesian coffee-growing regions is its unique topography: a high-altitude plateau that provides ideal conditions for coffee cultivation.
"The soil here is very fertile," Dandy explains. "We have two volcanoes nearby. The soil is very black and fluffy, which is a really good sign of fertility."
This region's coffee history stretches back to the Dutch colonial era, when large coffee plantations were established. After Indonesia gained independence, these farms were nationalized, and to this day, the government still owns and operates significant coffee plantations in the area.
"There are really huge government-owned coffee farms in Ijen," Dandy notes. "For a long time, these farms focused primarily on producing commercial-grade coffee. They typically mixed unripe and ripe cherries and processed them quickly for export."
This focus on large-scale, commercial production meant that the true potential of Ijen's coffee remained largely untapped. The rapid, bulk processing method, while efficient, didn't allow for the development of complex flavors that specialty coffee enthusiasts crave. It was a missed opportunity on a massive scale.
However, the landscape is changing. While the government farms continue to produce commercial-grade coffee, local farmers now have more options. "Farmers can now choose to sell their high-quality Arabica cherries for specialty coffee production at higher rates," Dandy explains. This shift has opened up new possibilities for both farmers and coffee processors like Ijen Lestari.
This shift in focus marked the beginning of a transformation. By zeroing in on the unique terroir of Ijen's higher altitudes and implementing more careful processing methods, Dandy and Ijen Lestari began to unlock flavors that were previously hidden in Ijen's coffee beans.
But the journey was just beginning. Dandy's next challenge would be to master the intricacies of coffee processing - a skill that would ultimately put Ijen Lestari on the global specialty coffee map.
Mastering the Art of Coffee Processing
With a clear vision of Ijen's potential, Dandy set out to learn everything he could about coffee processing. This journey of discovery would prove crucial in transforming Ijen Lestari's coffee from good to exceptional.
"I studied agribusiness in Bogor," Dandy explains, "and that's where I was first introduced to coffee processing. But most of what I know, I taught myself through books, online courses, and articles."
Dandy's self-taught approach reflects a key trait of successful innovators in the coffee industry: an insatiable curiosity and willingness to learn. He began experimenting with different processing methods, each of which can significantly impact the final flavor of the coffee.
Want to dive deeper into coffee processing methods? Check out our comprehensive guide: Discovering the World of Coffee Processing Methods: From Fruit to Cup!
Initially, Dandy started with natural processing, the most straightforward method. "I just bought cherries from the farmer at the time and started to sort. We separate the ripe and unripe, and then I dried the ripe ones," he recalls.
But Dandy didn't stop there. He continued to explore and experiment with various processing techniques, always seeking to bring out the best in Ijen's coffee beans. His breakthrough came with the implementation of a method that would put Ijen Lestari on the map: Carbonic Maceration.
"I knew about Carbonic Maceration from articles about winning competitions," Dandy shares. "I collaborated with a chemical engineering friend to create a simple setup to start with."
Carbonic Maceration, a technique borrowed from winemaking, involves fermenting whole coffee cherries in a carbon dioxide-rich environment. This process can result in unique flavor profiles, often described as more fruity and complex.
Dandy's experimentation with Carbonic Maceration was meticulous. "We tried fermenting for one day, two days, three days, and four days," he explains. "We found out that the best time to ferment the cherry in the tank is 72 hours."
This attention to detail and willingness to innovate set Ijen Lestari apart. By combining the unique terroir of Ijen with cutting-edge processing techniques, Dandy was creating coffee with flavor profiles that were turning heads in the specialty coffee world.
But the true test of Ijen Lestari's coffee was yet to come. Dandy's next step would take him to one of the most prestigious platforms in the coffee world: The Cup of Excellence.
The Cup of Excellence: A Game-Changing Achievement
"From 88.75 to 91.41 – it's really amazing. It's the highest cupping score ever in an official competition for Indonesian coffee beans"
The Cup of Excellence (COE) is widely regarded as the most prestigious competition and auction for high-quality coffees. It represents the pinnacle of achievement for coffee producers worldwide, with winning coffees often fetching premium prices and global recognition.
Curious about the Cup of Excellence? Learn more about this prestigious competition and what it means for coffee producers in our detailed blog post: Unveiling the Secrets of the Cup of Excellence: Indonesia's Rise to Coffee Stardom
"I was hesitant to join even though our reputation was already good," Dandy admits, reflecting on the first Indonesian COE in 2021. "I was afraid that we would not perform well and it would damage our reputation."
For Dandy and Ijen Lestari, the journey to COE success was filled with hesitation, determination, and ultimately, triumph.
This fear is understandable. The COE is known for its rigorous judging process, where coffees undergo multiple rounds of blind tasting by a panel of national and international experts. Only the highest-scoring coffees make it to the final auction.
Despite his initial reservations, Dandy decided to take the plunge. "I did the math and decided to go for it. I treated it as an investment opportunity," he explains. This decision would prove to be a turning point for Ijen Lestari.
In their very first participation, Ijen Lestari's coffee scored an impressive 88.75, securing the 4th place in the competition. This achievement was more than just a number – it was a validation of Dandy's innovative approaches and a spotlight on the potential of Indonesian specialty coffee.
But Ijen Lestari wasn't done yet. In a subsequent COE competition, they achieved what seemed impossible: a score of 91.41, the highest ever recorded for an Indonesian coffee in an official competition.
"I'm really proud of what we've achieved," Dandy shares, his voice filled with emotion. "From 88.75 to 91.41 – it's really amazing. It's the highest cupping score ever in an official competition for Indonesian coffee beans."
This record-breaking score wasn't just a win for Ijen Lestari – it was a win for Indonesian coffee as a whole. It showcased to the world that Indonesian producers could compete at the highest levels of specialty coffee.
The impact of this success was immediate and far-reaching. "After we won, I started to receive a lot of emails from all over the world," Dandy recalls. "During my visit to Shanghai, it was like I was an important star. People were taking photos with me. I felt like a celebrity."
More importantly, Ijen Lestari's success has inspired other Indonesian producers. "A lot of producers were inspired by what we've been doing," Dandy notes. "We started very small here nine years ago, and now we're here. I think it's quite inspiring for some producers."
This achievement at the Cup of Excellence marked a new chapter for Ijen Lestari and for Indonesian specialty coffee. It opened doors to new markets, brought international recognition, and set a new standard for what Indonesian coffee could be.
But for Dandy and the team at Ijen Lestari, this success is just the beginning. With their eyes set on the future, they continue to innovate, experiment, and push the boundaries of what's possible with Indonesian coffee.
Cultivating Change: Local Impact and Future Vision
"I believe Indonesian coffee can compete globally within 5 to 10 years."
The success of Ijen Lestari isn't just about winning competitions or gaining international recognition. At its core, it's about transforming lives and reshaping the future of Indonesian coffee. This transformation begins right at home, in the local community surrounding Ijen Lestari.
"We really provide job opportunities here," Dandy explains, his voice filled with pride. During our interview, he pans his camera around, revealing a bustling scene of activity. Women diligently sort coffee cherries, while others manage various stages of the processing. "This is the kind of impact we can make on the local community," he adds.
Ijen Lestari's growth has created a ripple effect of opportunity. From farm workers to processing staff, drivers to quality control experts, the company has become a significant employer in the region. Moreover, it's a family affair for Dandy, with his parents, sibling, and wife all playing crucial roles in the business.
This local empowerment is at the heart of Ijen Lestari's mission. By creating jobs and sharing knowledge, they're not just producing great coffee – they're nurturing a community of coffee professionals who can carry the torch of Indonesian specialty coffee into the future.
However, the road ahead is not without its challenges. Climate change looms large over the coffee industry, and Indonesia is no exception. "We're experiencing very hot temperatures during what should be the rainy season," Dandy notes with concern. "It's affecting our productivity."
The changing climate presents a significant threat to coffee production, potentially altering the delicate balance of factors that contribute to Ijen's unique terroir. Adapting to these changes while maintaining quality will be a key challenge for Dandy and other producers in the coming years.
Another hurdle is the sheer scale of Indonesia's coffee industry. "The Indonesian specialty coffee market is too small for such large farms," Dandy explains, referring to the vast coffee plantations that have historically focused on commercial-grade production. Transitioning these large-scale operations to specialty coffee production is a monumental task, requiring significant investment and a shift in mindset.
Despite these challenges, Dandy remains optimistic about the future of Indonesian coffee. "I believe Indonesian coffee can compete globally within 5 to 10 years," he asserts confidently. This isn't just wishful thinking – it's a vision backed by action and innovation.
Dandy's roadmap for the future of Indonesian coffee is clear:
- Invest in Quality: "Producers should learn more about processing," Dandy emphasizes. He believes that by focusing on quality at every stage, from cherry selection to processing, Indonesian coffee can consistently reach world-class standards.
- Embrace Innovation: Ijen Lestari's success with techniques like Carbonic Maceration shows the potential of innovative approaches. Dandy encourages other producers to experiment and push boundaries.
- Educate and Share Knowledge: "We did a processing class," Dandy mentions, highlighting the importance of spreading expertise within the community. By raising the overall knowledge level, the entire Indonesian coffee industry can improve.
- Promote Transparency: Dandy advocates for transparency in processing methods, believing that this openness benefits the entire industry and builds trust with consumers.
- Prepare for Climate Change: Recognizing the looming threat, Dandy stresses the need for producers to start preparing for and adapting to changing climate conditions.
- Seize the Opportunity: "There are not a lot of countries that are able to produce Arabica coffee," Dandy points out. He sees this as a huge opportunity for Indonesian producers to claim their place in the global specialty coffee market.
As Dandy looks to the future, his message to fellow Indonesian coffee producers is clear: "Take the opportunity quickly. We have to do something about it. Otherwise, climate change will take the opportunity from us."
This sense of urgency, coupled with innovation and a commitment to quality, is what Dandy believes will propel Indonesian coffee to new heights on the global stage. And if Ijen Lestari's journey is any indication, that future is bright indeed.
Conclusion: Brewing a Brighter Future
Dandy Dharmawan and Ijen Lestari's journey from a small, local operation to a globally recognized name in specialty coffee is more than just a success story – it's a blueprint for the future of Indonesian coffee.
Through innovation, perseverance, and an unwavering commitment to quality, Dandy has not only transformed his own business but has also paved the way for other Indonesian producers to shine on the world stage. His story embodies the very essence of what makes the Indonesian coffee community so exciting: a perfect blend of rich tradition and bold innovation.
At Koro Roasters, we're proud to be part of this vibrant, evolving coffee landscape. Like Dandy, we believe in the immense potential of Indonesian coffee. We're committed to supporting and showcasing innovative producers who are pushing the boundaries of what's possible with our local beans.
Dandy's journey reminds us that every cup of coffee tells a story – of the land it comes from, the people who nurture it, and the passion that transforms it from cherries on a tree to the complex, aromatic brew in your cup. It's a story of community, of overcoming challenges, and of constantly striving for excellence.
As we look to the future, we're inspired by visionaries like Dandy who are not just adapting to change but actively shaping it. They remind us that the best is yet to come for Indonesian coffee. Together, let's continue to explore, appreciate, and celebrate the incredible world of Indonesian specialty coffee.
Join Us on the Journey
Want to dive deeper into the world of Indonesian specialty coffee? Here's how you can stay connected with Koro Roasters:
- 📚 Read more: Explore our blog for more articles on Indonesian coffee, brewing tips, and producer stories.
- 📸 Follow us on Instagram: @kororoasters for daily coffee inspiration and behind-the-scenes glimpses.
- 🛒 Shop our coffees: Visit our Tokopedia store to try exceptional Indonesian beans, including those from Ijen Lestari.
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Let's brew a brighter future for Indonesian coffee, one cup at a time!